Mural Work on Falls Road
Memorial Statue
Belfast is a city in Northern Ireland, as well as the site of much internal political unrest and violence. Northern Ireland has been, and continues to, struggle with the issue of independence from Great Britain. Early on in the tour I was struck by the walls meant to separate Protestants and Catholics around Belfast, seventeen in total. I could not help but think of Germany, of a single people divided within their own country. I had never understood the large divide between the Protestants and the Catholics until realizing how it was incredibly intertwined with the unionist and nationalist movements.
Not until quite recently has the violence largely stopped between the two movements and towards the British Government. This struggle has been on going for centuries, but did not end centuries ago. Hearing stories about Northern Ireland was quite a different experience because it is a strong example that sometimes ancient history is not that ancient. It was not until 2005 the Irish Republican Army agreed to peaceful means of change, and to focus on political efforts. It was a wonderful step considering it had failed in the past but seems to be lasting better than before, however clearly Belfast is still not at peace. The many murals and flags with symbols of other wars, revolutions, and protests are clear indicators. No war is neat, but Northern Ireland's has been particularly rough. Known for their military violence and many prisoner protests (especially under Thatcher), this will not be something easily transitioned to the past whether they decide to separate from Great Britain or not.
Our tour was organized through former political prisoners and current activists to give us an opportunity to hear a different version of history- their personal stories. Roads may have been rebuilt, new buildings replaced the old, but the pain of the conflict is clearly still deeply rooted and present in the community through the generation living there who fought it. The tour began on Falls Road, the site of a major attack, and continued through Belfast to see many walls, gardens, and murals of remembrance for those lost in this war. Although it was not perhaps the most well rounded version of the story, it was undoubtedly from an expert in the field because it had shaped his entire life. He spent 15 years as a political prisoner, and grew up on Falls Road.
